Cua can phu quoc

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Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s largest island, và fast becoming the country’s premier beach destination. There are dozens of excellent beaches on Phu Quoc Island, & this guide covers them all, including my tips for accommodation on each one. In recent years, upgraded infrastructure – including a road network across the entire island – has opened access lớn more và more of Phu Quoc’s beaches. But Phu Quoc is currently in a state of transformation: there are only a handful of beaches left on the island where there isn’t large-scale resort construction, environmental destruction, or the presence of litter. This doesn’t mean the island & its beaches are ruined, but it isthe reality of Phu Quoc today. Và this is something that all travellers should be aware of before they visit. As a general rule, the south và west coasts are increasingly developed and in the midst of major construction; whereas the north and east coasts are still quiet và relatively untouched. Use this maxim as a guide khổng lồ which part of the island may suit you best.

Phu Quoc Island is developing fast, but there are still large swathes of empty beach

A Guide to lớn 19Beaches on Phu Quoc Island

The 19 beaches below are listed in order of my own personal preference. I’ve written a detailed mô tả tìm kiếm of each beach, plotted them all on my map, illustrated them with my own photos, and included my tips for places to stay, with link to check current rates, availability, & make bookings directly. I’ve listed accommodation in three price categories: ($)=budget, ($$)=mid-range, ($$$)=high-end.The best time khổng lồ visit is from November to lớn April. Better still, visit during the shoulder months (October and May) when prices are lower, availability is higher, tourist numbers are fewer, the weather is good, the sea as calm as an infinity pool, and the island is beautiful and lush. All the beaches are now easily accessible via paved roads or lanes, with the exception of Starfish Beach, which is reached via a dirt road. If you’re not staying on one of the beaches, you can hire a taxi, rent a motorbike, or get on the excellent Hop-on Hop-off Bus.

Click a beach below khổng lồ read more about it:

19 Beaches on Phu Quoc Island:

View in a LARGER MAP

1. Ghen tuông DauBeach:

• Location:north-western tip<MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Gành Dầu

• Things to See và Do:good beach, local village, seafront walkway, street food, local life

• Places to lớn Stay:Gold Coast($$), Kim 2 Resort ($$), Hula Hula Resort ($$), Dumbo Bungalows($$), phái nam Phuong Resort ($),Peppercorn Beach ($$$)

• Description: On the remote northwestern tip of the island, ganh Dau Beach is a wonderful little corner of flour-white sand fringed by palm trees, & bounded to lớn the east by high, densely jungled ridges. Reached via a paved lane leading east from the lively fishing village of the same name, ghen tuông Dau Beach is sheltered and shaded, the water calm và shallow with a cluster of wooden fishing boats moored offshore, & the Cambodian islands lying only a few kilometres in the distance, their xanh silhouettes sitting on the horizon lượt thích humpback whales. Tị Dau is the name given khổng lồ the entire northwestern cape, including a picturesque bay sheltering the local fishing fleet, a surprisingly bustling little fishing town with an active and interesting market, a filthy fishing harbour, và lots of street food and local life. But down by the beach, it’s veryquiet, & there’s none of the mega resort construction here that plagues so much of the rest of the west coast of Phu Quoc. The resorts that have been built are, so far, small and beautifully positioned. (However, the sea is encroaching on the beach at high tide & threatening lớn flood some of the resorts, which were probably constructed too close khổng lồ the surf.) Of the handful of accommodation options lining the beach road east of town, my favourite isGold Coast ($$), where the red brick bungalows are positioned on a beautiful stretch of trắng sand beach. Other options, which are all good, include Kim 2 Resort ($$), Dumbo Bungalows ($$),Hula Hula ($$), andPeppercorn ($$$) (although the latter has lost its beach & inflated prices so much that it’s hard to lớn justify the expense when you could stay atGold Coast for half the price). Even if you’re not staying on ghen Dau Beach, visit one of these resorts for a good lunch, a cocktail, & a swim.

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The presence of ghen tuông Dau town adds another dimension lớn staying here, because it means you can easily access local life (and food). The town is walking (or cycling) distance from the resorts, và it’s great to lớn be able to interact with island life và island people – something that’s hard to bởi if you’re staying on some of the other popular beaches on Phu Quoc. There’s also a remote edge khổng lồ this part of the island: it feels isolated và cut off; as if it were its own little municipality. The seafood restaurants on the western side of ganh Dau Cape are quite good & have lovely views of the glistening bay. But the best is phái nam Phuong, whose seafront restaurant also provides access lớn a wooden-plank waterfront walkway và a hidden, sandy cove for bathing. All in all, Gang Dau is currently my favourite place to lớn be và stay on Phu Quoc Island. I could (and have) spent days on end at ghen Dau Beach.

Ganh Dau is also a cape & a fishing village, where there’s local life, food, và a fishing fleet

Ganh Dau Beach has several very good mid-range resorts which are secluded và serene

Ganh Dau is a scenic cape with views over to the Cambodian islands & mainland

2. Ong LangBeach:

• Location:central north-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Ông Lang

• Things to See và Do:good beach và swimming, drinking & dining, fruit farms, good accommodation, temples

• Places lớn Stay:Mango cất cánh ($$$), Camia ($$$), The Shells ($$$), Chen Sea($$$), Coco Palm Beach Resort, ($$), Sea Sense ($$), La Casa ($), Island Lodge ($)Ninila Fruitfarm ($), Green Land($), Gecko Guest House ($)

• Description: Only 10 minutes or so north of the clogged streets of Duong Dong town, Ong Lang Beach is a long stretch of lovely, sandy bays punctuated by slabs of black, volcanic rock, on the central north-west coast. More of a chain of connected mini-bays than a long, unbroken beach, Ong Lang is peaceful, calm, green, and serene – everything you want your tropical beach to lớn be. The beach, which is backed by coconut palms và casuarina trees for most of its length, turns khổng lồ fertile red earth just a few metres inland from the sea, where tropical gardens, fruits orchards, và exotic flowers grow in abundance. In the shade of all this foliage, a network of narrow paved lanes & dirt alleyways is now a thriving tourist enclave, featuring boutique resorts in all price-brackets, organic-produce shops, hipster cafes, smooth bars, and Western restaurants. But, unlike other popular beaches on the island, most of the development here has been low-rise and, occasionally, low-impact. Just as everywhere else on Phu Quoc, Ong Lang has grown enormously in popularity over the last few years: the wedge of land between the beach và the main road has developed steadily, and now feels a bit like Thao Dien (an affluent suburb of Saigon) by the sea. But, somehow, it retains a low-key atmosphere, & remains an extremely attractive place to stay for a few days. Whether you’re a family, a couple, or a group of backpackers, Ong Lang Beach has got you covered. The general cấp độ of accommodation across all budgets is excellent. Most of the cheaper options are inland, just a few minutes’ walk from the beach, whereas the mid- & high-end resorts are right on the sand. Mango cất cánh ($$$) remains the standout resort here, but Camia ($$), The Shells($$$) and Chen Sea($$$) are also very smart indeed. Good mid-range options are Coco Palm Beach($$) and Sea Sense($$). & excellent budget options include Island Lodge ($)La Casa($), Ninila Fruitfarm($), Gecko Guest House ($) và Green Land($).

If you’re not staying on Ong Lang Beach, you can stop by at one of the resorts for a drink and a swim in the sea, or there are a few public access points that can be reached via small lanes, such as either side of Coco Palm Resort, and next lớn Dinh bố Temple, where Ha Phu Restaurant has a big slice of beach.

At the northern kết thúc of Ong Lang Beach there’s massive construction going on at the new Movenpick Resort, which itself is just passed the huge, disturbing Phu Quoc landfill, overflowing with foul-smelling waste, smouldering in the sun – a reminder of where the majority of our trash ends up. (The landfill is less visible now, since a corrugated iron fence has been erected around it). However, next khổng lồ the Movenpick site, a gravel path leads to chiêu mộ Bà Ông Lang (signposted to ‘Beach Picnic’). The path ends at a seaside shrine to Nguyen Trung Truc (a Vietnamese hero who fought the French colonialists in the mid-19th century) right on a gorgeous slice of Ong Lang beach. This is actually one of the most peaceful spots on the west coast: the swimming is good, there’s a cool breeze, & incense wafts over from the shrine. However, it’s difficult to lớn ignore the construction nearby, và litter is, predictably, piling up.

On the central-northwest coast, Ong Lang Beach is a very attractive series of interlinking, sandy bays

Ong Lang features some volcanic rock on sandy beaches backed by trees; there are lots of good resorts

At the northern over of Ong Lang is a shrine to lớn Nguyen Trung Truc next to lớn a nice stretch of empty beach

3. East CoastRoad: Bai Thom to đắm đuối Ninh

• Location:north-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Đường TL48: kho bãi Thơm→Hàm Ninh

• Things to lớn See & Do:explore undeveloped coast, Rory’s Beach Bar, fishing villages, local seafood

• Places khổng lồ Stay:Kiki Coconut Beach ($),Banana Homestay ($), Cay Sao Beach Resort ($$),The Pier ($$), Lotus trang chủ Chalets ($$)

• Description: Only now that the road (TL48) has been sealed between Bai Thom và Ham Ninh, has this long, enchanting section of the east coast begun lớn attract visitors. Though it may lack the long sandy beaches of other parts of the island, the east coast has a charm and isolation that’s more and more appealing khổng lồ me with each passing year, as the construction, crowds, & general paraphernalia of mass tourism take over the rest of the island. Starting just south of Bai Thom, the East Coast Road runs for 30km to mê mệt Ninh. Consisting of empty, rocky, sand and silt beaches fringed with coconut palms & tropical almond trees, và dotted with volcanic rock, the east coast is sparsely populated, quiet, & undeveloped. An onshore breeze blows from Cambodia – whose high ridges grow in a purple haze on the horizon – throughout the day, cooling the entire coastline. Just inland, the jungles of the interior grow up the steep slopes within the restricted confines of Phu Quoc National Park. The bays lie slow, lazy, & undisturbed in the sun. The water is shallow và full of fish, và even some coral close to shore. Trash is washed up on the beach, but nothing like the rest of the island. Little hamlets nestle in the shade of tropical trees, some of them with local seafood restaurants. Near the beginning of the northern section, Hon Mot is a small, green islet that can be reached via a wooden plank causeway over the sea from the pretty beach at cửa hàng Hòn Một. A sign on the island warns of landmines, but locals say if you stick lớn the stone pathways, you’re safe.

A little further south, domain authority Chong Port, which used lớn have daily ferries to lớn the mainland, is now rarely used, but surely it will be resurrected soon khổng lồ serve the new resorts that will be opening along this remote stretch of coast. The current resorts are almost all clustered toward the southern section of the East Coast Road. & very nice they are, too. Kiki Coconut Beach ($) is simply wonderful: stop in for a coconut on the beach or stay in one of their simple, breezy bungalows on the white sand under swaying palms. The Pier ($$) is an attractive, smart và modern mid-range resort with a good bar và pool, that’s starting lớn put this area on the map. & there are several others, including the small but charmingBanana Homestay ($), the excellent và eco-conscious Cay Sao Beach Resort ($$), và Lotus trang chủ Chalets ($$). & the big news is that Rory’s Beach Bar, the long-time favourite night spot on Phu Quoc Island, has relocated from the west coast khổng lồ the Each Coast Road: a sign of the east’s growing popularity. If you want to know what Phu Quoc was like 10-15 years ago, take a ride down the deserted, beguiling East Coast Road. Construction will come soon, so explore this area now.

The East Coast Road runs from Thom Beach to mê man Ninh, the least populated area of the island

Some very good budget & mid-range resorts have started to mở cửa along the East Coast Road

The East Coast Road has only recently been paved, allowing easy access lớn this remote part of the island

Cay Sao Beach, on the East Coast Road, is starting to lớn attract more visitors & small resorts

4. Rach TramBeach:

• Location:north coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Rạch Tràm

• Things to See và Do:bathe is clear, empty sea, stroll for miles on deserted beach

• Places to lớn Stay:none (potential camping)

• Description: By far the most remote & least visited of all the beaches và bays on Phu Quoc Island, Rach Tram is nonetheless one of the most serene, scenically located, and untouched beaches of them all. That’s likely to lớn change very soon, because the previously rough, red-dirt lane from the main road to lớn the beach has now been widened và almost completely paved, mainly – surprise surprise – khổng lồ facilitate the construction of a tourism project. However, it does mean that, for the time being, access to lớn Rach Tram is easier than ever (even though the last couple of kilometres were still pretty rough and muddy in places at the time of writing, in November 2019). Once on the bay, the beach is long và lovely, the sea beautiful và calm, with densely forested hills rising all around. But it’s important to remember that this is a ‘working beach’. Along the shimmering, tree-backed sand, there are a couple of rustic fishing villages, almost completely undisturbed by tourism, which appear khổng lồ be very poor indeed. Their trash is strewn around the bay, which is not uncommon in Vietnamese fishing communities. Fishing-related debris – some of which is ‘picturesque’, such as the rotting hulls of abandoned wooden boats, and some of which is unsightly, such as polystyrene boxes and discarded fishing nets – clutters much of the sand. But it’s on a much smaller scale than elsewhere on the island. I wonder where these fishing communities will go once the resorts arrive. It’s well worth visiting Rach Tram, because if you vày you can walk for miles along sublime empty beach – it’s a wonderful feeling. There’s no accommodation here at the moment, but there are plans afoot. For now, you can camp if you have your own equipment. Part of the fun of visiting Rach Tram is the journey there through jungle & cajeput forests, with birds of prey circling in the sky. There are plans to lớn turn this area into an ‘eco-tourism zone’, but that doesn’t necessarily mean what you think it means.

Rach Tram, on the north coast, is the least visited beach on the island, but it’s a sublime stretch of coast

Rach Tram is remote và tranquil, but the road has just been paved in anticipation of big developments

5. ThomBeach:

• Location:north-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Thơm

• Things khổng lồ See và Do:exploring empty coasts, relaxing in hammocks, local seafood

• Places to lớn Stay:Luna Beach($), Local Beach Homestay ($), Capella Resort ($)

• Description: Thom Beach has a stark beauty. Silent, still, hot, sparsely populated, and filled with the scent of cashew fruit and the sound of midday cicadas,there’s something beguiling about this remote northeastern tip of Phu Quoc Island. Most of the beaches are pebbly, rocky, & hidden from view – reached via dirt tracks – và the water’s very shallow & tidal here.Thom hamlet consists of just a few local shops, a couple of seafood restaurants, fishermen’s houses, and a school. & yet, tranquil, sleepy Thom Beach is charming and characterful. It may not have the long, stretching sands of other beaches, but it has calm shallow waters, hiding some coral và plenty of fish, wonderful views over khổng lồ the Cambodian coast and highlands, friendly locals, lush tropical foliage, a couple of informal places lớn sit and to stay, & most importantly, hardly any large-scale construction or noise pollution. Places like Local Beach Bar, Friendly Beach, and Luna Beach($), where you can camp by the sea under huge palms while dogs play in the surf and you order a fresh coconut and a glass of local beer before settling down khổng lồ a seafood dinner in the cool evening sea breeze, remind you that Phu Quoc still has real island life (even though many of those I spoke khổng lồ at Thom seemed lớn hail from suburbs of Hanoi). Thom Beach và the surrounding area is ripe for exploration, và it’s a place lớn sit back, relax, and let time stand still for a bit. For me, now that so much of the southern, central, and northwest coast is either built-up or in the process of transforming, I find myself more and more attracted lớn places lượt thích Thom Beach & the rest of the east & north coasts of Phu Quoc. This is the travellers’ side of the island; not the tourist side. But, now that the East Coast Road (TL48) between Thom & Ham Ninh has been paved, perhaps it won’t be long before slumbering Thom Beach is awoken.

Thom Beach, on the northeast coast, is quiet và slow: there’s very little construction here (yet)

Along Thom Beach are several pleasant beach cafes, such as Friendly Beach, Local Beach và Luna Beach

Thom Beach isn’t really a long stretch of sand; rather it’s a shallow cất cánh backed by tropical foliage

Thom Beach is very relaxing: it feels lượt thích Phu Quoc did 10 years ago, before the arrival of mass tourism

6. Vung BauBeach:

• Location:north-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Vũng Bầu

• Things khổng lồ See và Do:long, beautiful beach, swimming, walking, island bar

• Places khổng lồ Stay:Bamboo Cottages ($$), Wild Beach($$), Gold Sand Bungalow ($$), nam giới Nghi Resort ($$$), Fusion Resort ($$$)

• Description:One of the most attractive beaches on the island, Vung Bau, on the north-west coast, is now seeing major resort development, particularly at the centre of the bay, where the luxurious, all-inclusive Fusion Resort has recently opened, và at the north, where the classy nam Nghi Resort is now operating. The latter is built around a lush, rocky headland at the northern tip of the bay. There’s a lovely pool, a Tree House restaurant, & a tiny private island that serves as the resort’s bar, mở cửa to non-guests via a short boat trip. It’s a fun, if expensive, excursion for a smart cocktail at sunset. But there are still a couple of gorgeous, undeveloped stretches of sand, where the placid blue water meets the tree-lined beach. However, the dirt road along the length of the bay is no longer accessible by motorbike from the south (although walking or cycling is still allowed và worthwhile), because a check-point is now in place and, no doubt, major construction will start soon. Access from the north on the dirt road is still allowed by any vehicle, but only as far as Fusion Resort, where the road ends. The easiest access to Vung Bau Beach is to lớn take the paved road directly khổng lồ Nam Nghi Resort, from where you can head south on a bumpy road khổng lồ several excellent mid-range resorts on a glorious stretch of beach. Bamboo Cottages ($$) is the best of the bunch, not least because it relies on solar power và is focused on protecting the environment (something which the larger resorts appear to have no interest in whatsoever).Wild Beach ($$), Gold Sand Bungalow ($$), và Vung Bau Resort ($$) all tóm tắt the same marvellous location as Bamboo Cottages, and are all great for a quiet, relaxing, reasonably-priced island escape.

But, it’s unlikely that these small-scale, mid-range places lớn stay will last much longer. There are rumours of large developers acquiring the land and, more than likely, building a hideous, huge-scale integrated resort complex, và cutting down the forest in the process, just as happened on dẻo Beach before. So, enjoy it now, while you still can. For more information, see my Vung Bau Beach Guide.

Vung Bau Beach, on the north-west coast, is gorgeous: a sweeping arc of soft sand và calm, xanh water

At the northern end of Vung Bau, a few mid-range resorts have excellent beach access

But construction và mega resorts are fast gobbling up Vung Bau

7.Starfish Beach (Rach Vem):

• Location:north coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Rạch Vẹm

• Things to See và Do:good beach và bathing, snorkeling with starfish, seafood restaurants

• Places khổng lồ Stay:none (potential camping or hammocks)

• Description: Reached via a sandy lane, which itself is off a red dirt road traversing the forested northern coast, Rach Vem (better known as Starfish Beach) is remote, and this has so far kept development away. But, in the last couple of years, Rach Vem has become a popular day/lunch trip (especially for domestic tourists) due to lớn its abundance of floating fish farms (which double as seafood restaurants) and the hundreds of starfish that live in the shallow water here. As everywhere else on the island, resort development is on its way, but has yet lớn start in earnest. At present, there’s nowhere khổng lồ stay on Starfish Beach, although it’s worth asking if you can camp or rent one of the many hammocks on the sand for a night. Each day, hundreds of day-trippers arrive for a seafood lunch and to laze of the attractive beach at the northern end of the cất cánh (loungers can be rented for a few dollars). In the south of the bay, conditions in Rach Vem fishing hamlet look very rough indeed, và the water & beach immediately surrounding it is thick with trash & sewage. But this is not unusual for a remote fishing community in Vietnam, and don’t let it put you off, because the larger bay area is quite clean and very picturesque. In particular, the white sandy section just beyond the main cluster of fish farms, to the north, is lovely for a swim. In high season, it’s especially popular with Vietnamese groups, who, being a nation of discerning foodies, come for the fresh seafood. During these times, inflatable slides are often floating in the calm cất cánh for the kids khổng lồ enjoy (and the occasional adult, too).

Rach Vem Beach, in the north of the island, is known for its floating seafood farms và restaurants

Although Rach Vem fishing village is very dirty, the beach nearby is nice & good for swimming

Wooden platforms lead over brackish water lớn a nice white sand beach at Starfish Bay

8. Cua CanBeach:

• Location:north-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi cửa Cạn

• Things khổng lồ See & Do:local fishing village, river, kayaking, sailing

• Places to lớn Stay:Dormstay Riverside ($), Phu Quoc Ecolodge ($), Chez Carole ($$), Green bay Resort ($$$)

• Description: Cua Can is a little settlement, in the north-west of the island, at the point where a clear-flowing river meets the sea. As it drains into the Gulf of Thailand, the river creates a long, arcing sandbar lined with casuarina trees, with the choppy sea on one side and the placid river on the other. The village used lớn be a scruffy, dilapidated assembly of wood, brick, & corrugated iron homes. But now, since the road through town has been paved, it’s a much more well-organized scruffy village, with some good street food outlets at lunchtime, & a couple of excellent budget places to lớn stay: Dormstay Riverside($) và Phu Quoc Ecolodge($). It’s possible to lớn weave your way through the small fishing village & onto the sands of Cua Can Beach for a swim, but the sand is covered in trash: it’s essentially an informal dump for the village. Alternatively, there are a couple very good mid- and high-end resorts – Chez Carole($$) and Green Bay($$$) respectively – at the northern over of the beach, mix on an attractive hillside overlooking the river mouth & bay. Chez Carole has an excellent slice of beach that’s mở cửa to non-guests if you buy something to lớn eat or drink. There’s also a sailing school here – Phu Quoc’s first. Overall, Cua Can village and beach is a mellow, pretty, & slow-paced part of the island lớn spend a couple of days, và tourist development here is mercifully light.

Cua Can Beach, in the north-west of the island, is a pretty sandbar created by a river estuary

Chez Carole has a very nice slice of beach mở cửa to non-guests if you buy something to eat or drink

Cua Can Beach is a good place to lớn stay for a couple of nights or just to lớn drop by for a drink & a swim

9. LongBeach:

• Location:central south-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi ngôi trường (Dương Đông, Của Lấp, Dương Tơ)

• Things lớn See & Do:swimming, partying, cocktails, resorts, restaurants, bars, shopping

• Places to Stay:Thanh Kieu ($$), Mai House ($$),Mai spa chăm sóc sức khỏe và làm đẹp ($$),Lahana ($$), Phu Quoc Backpacker ($), 9 Station Hostel ($),Kim Bungalow ($), Lana Land ($), Mango Resort ($), Hoi An Phu Quoc ($),Intercontinental ($$$)

• Description: Aptly named, Long Beach stretches for almost 20km along the southwestern coast of Phu Quoc. Beginning just south of Duong Dong town & stretching almost as far as An Thoi on the southern-most tip of the island, the beach’s yellow sand is backed rows of coconut palms along its entire length. During the dry season months (November to lớn April) the water is almost completely motionless: a liquid mirror to the sky. However, Long Beach is now the scene of some of the most intense và large-scale development on the island, especially its central và southern sections. Long Beach can be divided very roughly into three sections: the north (from Duong Dong down khổng lồ the international airport), the centre (from the airport to lớn the Intercontinental), and the south (down to lớn the cape near Dat vị Beach). Click below khổng lồ read more about each section:

Long Beach, on the central-southwest coast, can be divided into three sections: north, central, và south

LONG BEACH (NORTH): The northern section of Long Beach is the original Phu Quoc tourist strip. This is where the majority of visitors khổng lồ the island stay, in one of the many good budget, mid-range, & high-end accommodations available. In general, the mid- & high-end resorts are on the beach side of the road, while the budget guest houses, hostels, restaurants và bars are on the other side. These days, the road is pretty busy, dusty, and unpleasant. But, head down any of the smaller lanes lớn the seaside resorts, và the beautiful, palm-studded beach reminds you why all this development is here in the first place. However, it’s getting pretty cluttered along the beach, & noise pollution can be an issue at night. But, providing you’re staying in good, beachside accommodation, the northern section of Long Beach is still a very satisfying place lớn spend a few days on the sand. I love the lush, calm oases of Thanh Kieu ($$), Mai House ($$) andMai spa ($$). Lahana Resort is on the wrong side of the street for the beach, but is excellent value, và has a superb infinity pool. For cheaper digs, kiểm tra out Phu Quoc Backpacker($), 9 Station Hostel ($)Kim Bungalow($), Lana Land($), Hoi An Phu Quoc($), và Mango Resort($).

The northern section of Long Beach is where most of the island’s resorts are: the beach here is very nice

The northern section of Long Beach is still a nice place to lớn be, as long as you stay in good accommodation

LONG BEACH (CENTRAL): South of the international airport, Long Beach is portioned off – each giant slab of land khổng lồ a different developer – for the construction of super resorts. Think Intercontinental, Novotel, Hyatt etc. – huge edifices that look like the Starship Enterprise. A handful are already complete, but most are in the construction phrase, which means the land (and most of the long, lovely beach) is cordoned off with corrugated iron fences, & trucks ply the main road, throwing up dust and exhaust into the salty sea air. This area is generally referred to lớn as Duong To, và it’s still possible (just about) to take a couple of small lanes off the main road down to the beach & access a couple of good swimming spots. Golden Sand Bar, for example, is a great little place to chill for a day, with cocktails, loungers, & an excellent beach. The same can be said of Shri Bar and Ola Beach Club. Also, Sunset Sanato Beach Club is a popular place to swim, drink và snap selfies among the various purpose-made adornments on the beach. Another good bit of cared-for public beach is in front of the Sailing Club, which is itself worth stopping in for a drink và a dip in their infinity pool. Of the resorts already open, the Intercontinental($$$) is one of the snazziest và classiest on the island, while the Novotel($$$) and Sol Beach($$$) are large, luxurious monoliths.

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An interesting side-product of all the massive development-in-progress are the makeshift, temporary villages – mostly scrap metal and wooden shacks – that line the main road by the construction sites, housing và catering khổng lồ the enormous companies of domestic migrant workers, contracted by the resort developers. They hail from all corners of Vietnam, but mostly, it seems, from north-central provinces, which are some of the poorest regions of the country. The temporary ‘shack-towns’ double as cheap, local markets full of good street food – lots of it northern-style – beer, rice wine, and, erm, ‘entertainment’ for the male workers. It’s lively, fascinating, confusing, và disturbing. All around are the luxury villas, resorts, và high-end shopping malls that the workers are building, which are ultimately for the enjoyment of wealthier people of a different social status, while they themselves are living in fairly grim conditions. You can’t argue with the job creation, I suppose. I don’t claim to have any deep understanding of this situation, but, at the very least, being confronted with this obvious division of wealth and labour, forces contemplation.

The central section of Long Beach is long & lovely, but it’s currently undergoing intense development

The central section of Long Beach is subject khổng lồ major resort development: most of the beach is roped off

LONG BEACH (SOUTH): South of the Intercontinental, yet more huge chunks of land have been portioned off for giant resorts. But further south still, construction begins to dissipate, leaving the red dirt road of old khổng lồ plough its course along the serene coast all the way to Mui Dat bởi Cape. Here, there are still plenty of deserted stretches lớn bathe in the calm, clear sea. However, the land is due khổng lồ become the construction site of the Hyatt, among other large projects. Unfortunately, trash on the beach is off-putting, và the remains of fishermen’s homes – now just piles of bricks and woven palm-leaf roofs bulldozed lớn make way for luxury resorts – are reminders of what the future holds. If riding here by motorbike, take care on the dirt road: some of it is very sandy và it’s easy to chiến bại control. Also, after heavy rain, the sand becomes mud, which is very treacherous on a motorbike.

10. SaoBeach:

• Location:south-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Sao

• Thing khổng lồ See & Do:white sand beach, watersports, food, drink, selfie-spots

• Places lớn Stay:Green Garden Bungalow ($$), Xuan Hien Resort ($$)Phu nam giới House ($), Wanderlust Bungalows ($), The Beach House ($$), My Lan ($$)

• Description: Sao Beach, with its arcing palm trees, snow-white sand, và distinctive butane-blue water, is one of the most popular beaches on the island. Once touted (but incorrectly, even back then) as the ‘Best Beach in Vietnam’, Sao is still a very attractive stretch of sand to walk along and swim. But, sadly, the writing has been on the wall for Sao Beach for at least a few years, và there are many reasons for this. Its increasing popularity led to haphazard, temporary construction of small resorts, bars, cafés, và restaurants; trash quickly built up – squeezed into the narrow freshwater creeks that feed onto the beach & into the sea; jet skis filled the waters with gasoline and broke the silence; even the husks of fresh coconuts – consumed in the hundreds by day-trippers each day – built up lớn clog the sand and the surf. For at least 3 or 4 years now, Sao’s best days have been behind it. But, today, I personally find it quite a sad place and a sad sight. There’s not much effort to lớn keep up appearances anymore: things look forlorn & uncared for. Even though the dirt road to lớn the beach has finally been paved & people still flock khổng lồ Sao by the thousands each day, it’s a shadow of its former self. & it’s no surprise that massive resort development – which was always inevitable, and surely part of the reason why the temporary structures were of such low quality – is now on the way. The northern kết thúc of the beach – the nicest part of the entire bay, where spindly coconut palms khung the perfect paradise-beach backdrop – has been cleared for construction of a large resort. I doubt it will be long before the rest of the bay follows suit. It’s still worth coming to Sao for a swim, a stroll along the attractive sandy bay, a gin & tonic, & a grilled fish lunch at Paradiso Beach Club – which is by far the best place to be on Sao Beach. & don’t get me wrong: I hope that the forlorn state I see Sao in today is just a phase, or perhaps it’s going khổng lồ be ingeniously reinvented, reinvigorated. But if you saw Sao 10 years ago (yawn, I know), it’s hard khổng lồ come lớn terms with what it is today.

There are a couple of places khổng lồ stay right on the beach, the most popular of which is My Lan ($$), offering simple, clean but soulless rooms with easy access to lớn the beach. It’s usually better (and cheaper) khổng lồ stay in the leafy back-streets behind Sao Beach, where you’ll find friendly budget guest houses, such as Phu phái nam House ($), Green Garden Bungalow($$), or the smarter Xuan Hien Resort($$). Or even Wanderlust Bungalows ($), located on the main road near the entrance to lớn the Sao Beach road, which has clean, crisp, good-value rooms.

There’s another beach just to lớn the south of Sao, called Bai Giua. Hidden down a paved lane leading from Green Garden Bungalow, Bai Giua beach looks nice from afar, but when you get up close the bay is full of trash and completely unswimmable. Oh well, another one bites the dust.

Sao Beach in the morning, before the hundreds of daily tourists arrive

Sao Beach at lunchtime, one of the busiest times of day, especially for foreign tourists

Sao Beach is suffering from awful pollution, much of it plastic waste from tourism và fishing

Paradiso Beach Club is at the northern over of Sao Beach, and is by far the best place khổng lồ experience Sao

11. DaiBeach:

• Location:north-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Dài

• Things lớn See và Do:waterpark, safari, shopping malls, big resorts

• Places lớn Stay:Radisson Blu ($$$), Vinpearl ($$$)

• Description: This long, long stretch of fine sand beach with turquoise water lapping at the exposed roots of casuarina trees, was for many years one of myfavourite beachesin Vietnam. In the northwest of Phu Quoc Island, dẻo Beach was, until quite recently (only a few years ago, in fact) completely undeveloped, save for a handful of seafood shacks dotted on the grass under the shade of large tropical trees. However, that changed dramatically when Vingroup moved in (as they always do) to lớn build a mega-resort complex, including theme parks, waterparks, casinos, golf courses, safaris, enormous hotels, và rows upon rows of luxurious faux-Roman villas. Collectively known as Vinpearl, this development now sprawls along the entire northern and central sections of dẻo Beach, while other developers have moved in on the southern section. Hundreds, probably thousands, of old-growth tropical trees were felled to lớn make way for Vinpearl. The destruction was in full view of the road, & an extremely disturbing sight lớn behold. The southern section of the beach is going the same way: cordoned off for more resort construction, & closed to lớn public access. But, it is still possible (just about) lớn access the southern part of dai Beach, via a dirt path leading north from nam Nghi Resort to lớn Sang Giau beach shack. But it’s a sorry sight, with picnic trash, fishing debris và construction material strewn all over the place. The swimming is still fine & the cất cánh is still quite beautiful. But, in general, it’s pretty depressing and not worth the trip. These days, if you want to lớn experience dẻo Beach, your only real choice is to stay at one of the gigantic resorts:Radisson Blu($$$) or Vinpearl($$$).

Dai Beach, in the northwest, is one of the prettiest on the island, but it’s changed dramatically recently

Large-scale resort building has destroyed much of the forest along dai Beach

Part of the huge Vinpearl development that now takes up most of dẻo Beach

12. Dat DoBeach:

• Location:south-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Đất Đỏ

• Things khổng lồ See và Do:local seafood restaurants, fishing scenes

• Places lớn Stay:none

• Description:Accessed via a dirt road just north of the cable oto station, Dat vì chưng Beach is a pretty cất cánh bookended by two small headlands that frame an attractive stretch of sand và calm waters. The cất cánh is nice enough (although the surroundings are quite scruffy) and there are a handful of local seafood restaurants (quán hải sản) right on the sand at the northern kết thúc of the beach. But the beach’s primary focus is the production of cá cơm trắng khô– dried anchovies – which are laid out to lớn dry in their hundreds of thousands on wooden trestles on the sloping beach. It’s quite a sight. Swimming here is fine, và there’s no development yet, although I’m sure it will come soon. At the moment, there’s no accommodation on Dat do Beach, but at the time of my most recent update (November 2019), there was land clearance và the beginnings of construction just behind the beach.

Dat bởi Beach, in the southwest, is where little anchovies are dried in the sun – known as cá cơm khô

13. Pagoda Bay:

• Location:south-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Đăm

• Things to lớn See & Do:Ho Quoc Pagoda và statue, wild honey farm, scenic drive

• Places to lớn Stay:Montana Resort ($$)

• Description:Accessed via a scenic, concrete road curling along the south coast, Bai Dam is a wide, mostly rocky bay, where dense jungle meets the sea from the hills behind. I’ve given it the name ‘Pagoda Bay’ because of its most famous attraction, the recently completed Hộ Quốc Temple, with its colossal sculpture of quan liêu Âm (the Goddess of Mercy) presiding over the pagoda complex và looking out lớn sea. The pagoda itself is impressive, serene, and very attractive, with lots of shrines, long staircases, và sculptures of deities from the Buddhist pantheon. Its position looks out over the bay, across the dark xanh sea, and down to lớn Vinh Dam port, just to lớn the south. Visit in the afternoons (about 4pm-5pm) for the low light & a beautiful cool, scented breeze off the forested hills. The Truc Lam vegetarian restaurant is fine for lunch. Beyond the pagoda, where the road ends, it’s possible khổng lồ find a couple of quiet, secluded, rocky spots for a waterside chill & a swim. The rest of the bay is (surprise, surprise) blighted by trash: picnic trash, fishermen’s trash, flotsam washed up for the mainland, & household and construction trash dumped here on purpose. Tragic. But the temple complex, the views from the top, the sculptures, và the presence of the lapping sea, all make ‘Pagoda Bay’ a worthwhile excursion & a contemplative little place, away from the usual beach paraphernalia. There’s another little temple (Mieu Hoang Tu) near the start of the road, và also a wild honey farm và shop. There’s no accommodation on the cất cánh itself, but there are a couple of OK resorts at the beginning of the entrance road. Neither are great, but Montana Resort is fine for a night, if you want to lớn get lớn the temple for sunrise, for example.

The view from Ho Quoc temple down khổng lồ ‘Pagoda Bay’ (Bai Dam), on the south-east coast

A statue of the jade Buddha near the entrance lớn the pagoda seated under a sacred bodhi tree

The colossal statue of quan lại Am (the Goddess of Mercy) atop the Ho Quoc Pagoda, Bai Dam Bay

14. Duong Dong Town và Harbour:

• Location:central-west coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Cảng Dương Đông

• Things khổng lồ See và Do:local market, night market, street food, seafood, fishing fleet, temples

• Places to lớn Stay:Seashells khách sạn ($$$), local guest houses ($)

• Description:Right in the middle of the west coast, Duong Dong is a sprawling, bustling town of the sort you’d expect to find on the mainland. A massive increase in population, fuelled partly by the tourism boom & partly by domestic migrants arriving from other provinces as far afield as the north, Duong Dong is a busy, noisy, frenetic place, filled with street food (try bún kèn here, an island speciality), beeping traffic, and busy people: in short, everything that a Vietnamese town in the Mekong Delta should be. The main market is fantastic & fascinating, as is the river, which winds through town, its black waters clogged with fishing vessels, cargo barges, & waste. At its mouth is Duong Dong harbour, where a fleet of wooden tour boats lie at anchor và a slender new pier reaches out khổng lồ sea for about a kilometre, lớn deeper waters where giant cruise ships dock. Riding a motorbike along the old airport runway (now Vo Van Kiet Street) is a lot of fun. The only beach in Duong Dong town is a spit of sand immediately south of Dinh Cau Temple, a small shrine to the sea goddess atop a rocky outcrop at the harbour’s entrance. Bathing here is quite nice but gets crowded at sunset, when dozens of street food vendors phối up under the temple. Trash is a problem because many people discard their empty plastic food containers in the sea or leave them on the sand. But promenading along the harbour walls và new harbour park, watching the boats come and go, especially at sunset, is wonderful. (Note: there’s currently construction along the harbourfront). A sleek new hotel, Seashells ($$$), occupies a prime position overlooking the harbour and ocean. For much cheaper accommodation, there are dozens of local guest houses (nhà nghỉ in Vietnamese) & mini-hotels clustered in the streets around the night market (chợ đêm). The latter is a bit too touristy for my tastes, but is an ever popular place khổng lồ sample some seafood. Also near the night market, is Phu Quoc’s ornate Cao dẻo temple.

At the harbour mouth in Duong Dong, Dinh Cau temple sits on the rocks looking out lớn sea

The river in Duong Dong is full of fishing boats và cargo vessels

Riding a motorbike on the old Phu Quoc Airport runway just north of Duong Dong Town

15. Khem Beach,Ong Doi Cape, Cay Dua Beach:

• Location:southern tip (east)<MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Khem, bãi Cay Dua, Mũi Ông Đội

• Things khổng lồ See & Do:a slither of public beach, shiny new resorts và malls, a scenic drive

• Places to lớn Stay:JW Marriott Emerald cất cánh ($$$), Premier Village ($$$), Premier Residences ($$$)

• Description:At some time, in between restricted access due khổng lồ military control và the development of the absurdly ‘fairy-tale’ luxury resort of JW Marriot Emerald Bay, there was a brief period – probably less then a year – when the snow-white sands of Khem Beach were accessible lớn the public. But that time has pretty much gone now. The central và southern portions of the bay are taken up entirely by the Premier Residences và the Marriott Emerald bay – a really strange luxury concept resort based around the idea of a fictional university; and the rest of the beach is an enormous construction site for yet more high-end resorts. All this leaves only a tiny slither of beach with a couple of food shacks, at the northern end, for public access. But it’s a bit shabby and hardly worth the trip. If you can afford the Marriott (upwards of $300 a night) it’s a wacky và luxurious way khổng lồ spend a night. Otherwise, there’s very little reason to visit Khem Beach anymore, except khổng lồ gawp at other people’s luxury.

However, branching south of Khem Beach, a lovely paved lane leads along a steep và jungled hillside by the sea, all the way khổng lồ Ong Doi Cape. It’s a beautiful little ride but dead-ends at the entrance lớn the upscale property of Premier Village. Managed by AccorHotels, this luxurious resort consists of white villas built on stilts over the rocky bay and sandy coves of the entire Ong Doi Cape. It’s a beautiful and secluded place lớn stay, if you can afford it: rates are between $250-$700 a night. Even so, it’s well worth the excursion (if you’re on a motorbike) down the scenic lane. Just west of Ong Doi Cape is Cay Dua Beach, which looks enticing but is off limits due lớn a naval base.

Khem Beach, in the southeast of the island, is now almost entirely taken up by resorts và construction

Mui Ong Doi is the southeastern tip of the island: a scenic road leads to the entrance lớn Premier Village

16. An Thoi Port, Xep Beach, Hon Thom Cable Car:

• Location:southern tip (west)<MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Cảng An Thới, bến bãi Xếp, Cáp Treo Hòn Thơm

• Things to See và Do:local market, street food, bustling port, lighthouse, cable car

• Places khổng lồ Stay:Lien Thong hotel ($), Phung Hung Boutique ($)

• Description:A dusty, busy little town at the southern tip of the island, An Thoi is Phu Quoc’s main fishing port. Away from its bustling main street lined with shops, markets & food stalls, the harbour is an interesting place khổng lồ explore. There’s an entrance fee (10,000vnd) for the main terminal & pier, but you can get to lớn the habourfront just next lớn it, where the smaller fishing boats are moored, for free. The fishing-related activity is interesting but the water is filthy. Boat tours to lớn the An Thoi Islands (just off Phu Quoc’s southern tip) also depart from An Thoi’s main terminal.

Around the back of town (due west), Bai Xep is a sheltered cất cánh reached by a series of narrow alleyways. It’s trang chủ to a fleet of wooden fishing boats and a rough-looking fishing community, whose crumbling homes lie under the path of the Hon Thom cable car; the concrete pylons soaring into the sky and stretching into the distance out to sea. There’s a sandy beach here, but it’s more of a working beach than a leisure one. And, although the setting is scenic, the litter is a bit distracting. Around the back of Bai Xep (due south) a lighthouse stands on a rocky rise with good views over town và towards the An Thoi Islands. It’s accessed via a steep & narrow concrete path.

In fact, the best view of Bai Xep and An Thoi is from above: from the cabins of the Hon Thom cable car. The cable oto station is on a bluff just north of Bai Xep, accessed via a separate road. The scale of the project is astonishing – apparently one of the longest oversea cable cars in the world. The concrete pylons are colossal columns that look lượt thích the legs of a Wellsian alien from War of the Worlds, traipsing across the sea from island lớn island. It’s impressive, but also rather hideous. Ticket prices are 300,000/500,000vnd (low/high season). There’s also massive ongoing development around the cable car station. However, one gets the feeling that the residents of An Thoi haven’t benefitted much from the explosion of tourism around their homes: the locals I met weren’t a particularly happy bunch, và I’d imagine it’s not going khổng lồ get better for them, as development continues to lớn swallow up the land & sea upon which, và from which, they make their living. Staying the night in An Thoi is quite fun and a good way lớn soak up the local atmosphere of the town if you have the time. Lien Thong Hotel($) and Phung Hung Boutique($) are both reasonably priced, clean, comfortable places to sleep.

An Thoi, on the southern tip, is a large fishing port with hundreds of wooden boats in the harbour

An Thoi town is a busy & dusty town, but its backstreets are narrow và interesting

The Hon Thom cable oto towers above the fishing fleet around An Thoi, on the southern-most tip

17. Bai VongBay:

• Location:central south-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Bãi Vòng

• Things lớn See và Do:take/watch the boats come và go to/from the mainland

• Places khổng lồ Stay:Serene Resort ($)

• Description:Bai Vong is a gaping bay on the central southeast coast. For some visitors, Bai Vong will be their first impression of the island, because this is where all thefast boats và car ferries from the mainland dock. The large, long cất cánh is impressive enough when seen from the boats as they approach the island, especially with the forested hills of Phu Quoc National Park rising behind. But, in reality, Bai Vong is more of a port than a beach: it’s a point of arrival và departure, rather than a place to relax on the sand. There are a few shops & snack outlets around the fast boat pier at the north of the bay, but very little else of interest, except khổng lồ watch the boats as they come & go. (For boat schedules & ticket prices seethis guide.) The northern portion of the cất cánh is sandy and lined with casuarina trees, but the water here is often thick with jellyfish và not very clean. The southern section of the bay is mostly rocky and given over to industry. However, there are a couple of decent, cheap places to stay here, including Serene Resort, which might be good if you have khổng lồ take a boat early the next morning.

Bai Vong, on the central-southeast coast, is the main harbour for fast boats và car ferries to lớn the mainland

18. đắm đuối Ninh Village và Pier:

• Location:central-east coast <MAP>

• Vietnamese name:Làng Chài Hàm Ninh

• Things lớn See và Do:street food, seafood, markets, local life

• Places to Stay:local guest houses (nhà nghỉ)

• Description:Once a thriving port, đắm say Ninh is now best known for its fresh seafood restaurants. A small but lively fishing village on the central-east coast, ham Ninh doesn’t really have a beach: rather, it’s a cluster of concrete & corrugated-iron dwellings crowded around a small river mouth as it empties into the sea, at which point a long pier reaches out into the surf. Now that the boats no longer dock here, the pier has become a seafood market/restaurant zone, with about half a dozen informal eateries jostling for space along the narrow causeway. It’s particularly popular with Vietnamese tourists – who always know where khổng lồ find the best, freshest seafood. The pier can get very busy dur